Sunday, October 30, 2005

The Journey Upstream from La Tabatière


We left La Tabatière aboard the Nordik (on Saturday 13 August) with the sun shining, but even as we passed the entrance to Mutton Bay, a short distance south along the coast, the skies had become overcast and there was a fine rain that continued intermittently throughout the day.

That night a real storm came up. The seas became so heavy that the crew had to drop speed. Randy slept through it all and I was fortunately unaffected, although unable to sleep. I went out on deck where there were a lot of pathetic looking people clutching barf bags. Not everyone was able to get them to their faces in time, which meant that one had to be careful to stay upwind of them and to keep a firm grip on the railing so as not to fall on the slippery deck. There was also great excitement as the crew wrestled to control one of the containers that had begun to slide back and forth as each wave crashed over the Nordik's bow.

The next day, Sunday, the weather improved, but Monday, our last day, was perfectly glorious. The sun was bright and warm, and as we passed Anticosti Island, leaving the Gulf behind and entering the river proper, the water was as calm as it had been rough two nights before. The Gaspé Peninsula was visible on the starboard side, tinted a beautiful, clear blue that blended with the water and sky At times the surface of the river was as smooth as a mirror and at others gently feathered into patterns of colour and texture by localized breezes. Even the crew was impressed and told us we were seeing something very unusual. Most of the passengers enjoyed the opportunity to spend the time on deck throughout the afternoon and evening, watching whales and ships, until we approached the lights of Rimouski, our destination and the Nordik's home port.

The Chic Choc Mountains, Gaspé, from the St. Lawrence River

Flushing the bilges west of Anticosti Island

On the St. Lawrence River, west of Anticosti Island

Havre St. Pierre



Harrington Harbour
Harrington is thoroughly unique, a classic outport situated on an island. No cars or trucks are permitted, and people move about the village on wide, well maintained boardwalks or across the rock, on foot, bicycle or atv. In recent years it has begun to attract tourist interest because it was the setting for the movie, "La Grande Séduction," a madcap comedy about the residents of a fishing outport who attempt to convince a young interim doctor to take up permanent residence.




Tidal pool, La Romaine

Providence Island is an island community that has been restored as a historical preserve.

La Chapelle, Providence Island, has been gloriously and lovingly restored. Clear windows flood the interior with light. The lecturn is in the form of an anchor, and the altar frontal is a fishing net.
Personalities

Darlene
'Never say I don't look after my minister.'

Nancy of Chez Nancy General Store, Mutton Bay

Guy, the government nurse

Randy, the Anglican parson, makes a pastoral call on Mocha, the Postmistress's new puppy.
The Boys and Their Boats
Building model boats in grandpa's shed on a wet day

"Lucas, we knows what we're doing, we knows what we're doing....
When I observed that the repair didn't appear watertight, the reply was: "Well, if she goes down, she goes down!"

Grandpa's other shed, where the fishing gear is kepy

The boys hauling their scow out of the water for winter storage
Flowers, Moss, Plants, Lichen and Trees













Scenes Around Mutton Bay

A pond high in the Mecatina Hills above Mutton Bay


Snuff Box, Graveyard Island and the entrance to Mutton Bay
Snuff Box is the only part of the village accessible only by boat.

'Down the Harbour' (i.e. 'downtown'), Mutton Bay

Snuff Box shoreline

The Cemetary Cross
Shoveling ice into crates of crab fresh off the boat, La Tabatière
The fish plant at Tabatiere is one of the principal employers in the area.

Mutton Bay in the afternoon sun
The open sea is in the background left; the harbour is centre; the entrance to Snuff Box (an arm of the bay) and Graveyard island (with the white picket fence) are at left; the Anglican rectory is at the right (west) end of the bridge, at the entrance to the Bottom (another arm of the bay).

Fog rolls across the harbour at mid-day, Mutton Bay

Minnie's home, Mutton Bay.
The house was built by Minnie's father and husband in the mid-1940s. It is not the oldest in the village, but it is one of the last that is not covered with vinyl siding. It has to be repainted about every two years.

St. Clement's Anglican Church, Mutton Bay

Government Wharf, Mutton Bay

Snuff Box from Darlene's 'bridge' (porch or deck)

Gros Isle/Isle Mecatina

Monday, August 08, 2005

Our Last Sunday in Mutton Bay

Sunday, August 7, the Feast of the Transfiguration, was Randy's last in Mutton Bay (we leave Saturday the 13th on the Nordik). It was a near-perfect, early August day. The sky was cloudless, and the royal blue waters of the bay sparkled in the sun as if strewn with thousands of diamonds. There was a stiff, south-west breeze off the sea that made the air fresh and balmy -- and discouraged the blackflies.

Because there was to be a baptism, the congregation in St. Clement's Church was over 30, unusually large for a summer Sunday, and included a number of younger children whose light-heartedness was allowed to blend easily into the formalities of the occasion.

Following the service we all went to the home of the baby's parents, where a delicious spread had been laid out for us and the celebration continued into the afternoon.




Now in those days.... The baby's grandfather.